Walk 14 South Coast Path Chale to Brighstone - 6.5 miles

I had been waiting for a sunny day to set out to walk the south coastal path, and this is the first stage, from Chale Church to the Isle of Wight Pearl shop near Brighstone. It was wall to wall photo opportunities so it took me about 4 hours with a few detours en route.

At Chale Bay Farm this dinosaur was surveying his territory!

I walked the first 500m by road, as the coastal path loops around the edge of a field before rejoining the road to get around Whale Chine. Looking back along the Military Road you can just see the medieval lighthouse the Pepperpot, or St Catherine's Oratory on the top of St Catherine's Down.

There are quite a few llamas on the island and this bunch headed straight for the fence thinking I had food.

The coastal path is broken up by a number of chines, steep river valleys cut out of soft coastal sandstone and clay cliffs by a river flowing to the sea.The first on the route is Whale Chine, which is currently unstable and the steps to the beach are fenced off. This path is best walked in dry weather as the clay paths would be very slippery if wet.

Here the eroded cliff can be seen and section of landslip.

A very unfocused shot, but this is a Pyramidal Orchid, the County Flower of the Isle of Wight, which flowers profusely in the chalky grasslands around here

My favourite shot of the day, poppies growing in a field along the path.

This Adonis Blue butterfly was a bit fast for me but I just caught it settling on a Birdsfoot Trefoil.

Next comes Shepherd's Chine, one of the island's largest and now inaccessible. There is a cut across at the top end of the chine, but it is a rough, unstable path and it's easier to return to the road to bypass this chine.

In the 19th century these coastguard cottages were built just east of Shepherd's Chine near Atherfield Point, replacing an earlier coastguard station nearer the cliff edge.

A patch of Common Centaury caught my eye.

All along the path were rows of ox eye daisies.

There were several kitesurfers floating around, getting an even better view of the coastline than I had.

Sea thrift or Armeria flourishes in the chalk all along this coast.

A yacht race was also provided for my entertainment as I detoured around Cowleaze Chine, very thoughtful!

This is also the month for Red Campion, affording some colour to my yacht photos.

A fairy ring of huge toadstools, probably lethal!

A classic view of the white cliffs of Tennyson Down and The Needles.

The path is worryingly close to the edge in places.

A hang-glider and kite-surfer were circling around above Grange Chine. This chine can be crossed via a bridge before rejoining the path in the campsite.

The path has now fallen away behind the chalets of Brighstone Holiday Centre and the path is diverted through the grounds. I carried on, but on reaching Chilton Chine on the borders of the Isle of Wight Pearl land, I found the land had very risky looking large cracks, so I doubled back to the holiday centre to complete the last half mile or so along the road.

This is the first place along the route with facilities, other than the campsites which are just for residents. As well as a tempting choice of pearl jewellery, there are WCs and a cafeteria. The bus stop for trip back is just a little further along the road.

Full map and walk details

Walk Details
Start: Chale Church
Finish: Isle of Wight Pearl, Chilton Chine
Distance: 6.5 miles
Time: 4 hours with photostops
Bus: Route 6 runs from Newport to Ventnor via Chale all year, but the Island Coaster bus along the Military Rd is the only route from Chale to Freshwater Bay and only runs in the summer season, roughly every 2 hours between 10.30 and 4.30, so a bit of planning is needed.
Refreshments and WC: Wight Mouse Inn at Chale and Isle of Wight Pearl. Portacabin at Whale Chine car park.

Walk 13 Newport to Cowes Cycle Path - 3.75 miles

A lovely sunny day gave way to a grey and cloudy evening as I met a friend to walk the cycle path from Newport to Cowes. With less than a week to go until the Isle of Wight Festival, the tents and flags were going up on the other side of the Medina.

This rusting hull is now known locally as the paddle-steamer Ryde Queen was launched as the HMS Ryde in 1937 as a passenger ship for the cross Solent traffic. She was called into military service as a minesweeper and anti-aircraft ship taking in the D-day landings being commemorated this week. After a spell in London as a floating gin palace, she returned to the island as a disco boat, but once it closed the steamer has been left to rust away in the river mud.

Across the river, the spire on the hill is the church of St Mildred's at Whippingham, Queen Victoria's place of worship during her years at nearby Osborne House. Prince Albert worked with Albert Jenkins Humbert to design the church, where there is an exhibition of Royal memorabilia.

© Copyright John Salmon and licensed for reuse under this Creative Commons Licence

Walk Details

Walk Details

Distance 3.75 miles each way

Start:Newport bus station

Finish: Newport bus station

Time: 2 hours

Bus: No. 3 Ventnor to Newport

Refreshments and WC: Newport and Cowes town centres

Walk 12 A Stroll along the Duver

This walk is just a stroll along the stretch of sand in St Helens known as the Duver, (pronounced Duvver, though I always say it wrong.) It is a small spit of land projecting into Bembridge Harbour, where the currents have deposited shingle and sand at the mouth of the Eastern Yar across the years. The village of St Helens grew up around the Cluniac Priory and Church built in 11th century. When the old church became unsafe, a new one was built inland and a great wave totally destroyed the old church in the 18th century.

Not very happy with today's photos, so will try and get some better ones on my next trip!

When the tide is low the small boats are nestled on the mud flats. There is not much of historic interest here but it's a peaceful and scenic landscape.

Out in the bay you can see St Helens Fort, which was part of a defence system set up by Prime Minister Lord Palmerston in 1859 to defend Portsmouth from the French, though it was never used, leading it to be dubbed a Palmerston Folly.

Each year at low tide, hundreds of people of all ages trek three quarters of a mile across the exposed causeway to reach the Napoleonic fort, which has even been a set for an episode of Doctor Who. The event is never advertised, but the date, usually in August, spreads by word of mouth. Traditionally, walkers climb up and circle the fort's parapet before setting back for shore. There is a window of roughly 30 minutes to make the trip, but most walkers are pretty wet by the time they get back to the beach for the customary barbecue.

CC Image by Richard Heaven

At the end of the path we come to St Helens Old Church, which was built on the sands in the 14th century. The church was dedicated to the village's own saint St Helena. The church doubled as a lighthouse when it was painted white in the 18th century to guide ships. Now only the tower remains

Most of this land is owned by the National Trust, and it's a popular spot for a stroll along the sands, through rock pools and coastal woodland and home to many wading birds.

In 1882, the prestigious Royal Isle of Wight Golf Club was founded in the Duver, soon well known as Queen Victoria's sons, including Edward VII, played here. The clubhouse is now a holiday cottage run by the National Trust.

Now in June there are carpets of wildflowers, such as the salt-loving thrift and there are also some rare clovers and autumn squill.