At one time this area would have have been part of the coastal path but due the numerous landslips the official path now follows the clifftop. However, I chose this hot September day for a short stroll around the island's southern tip.
I took the No 6 bus to the Buddle Inn, a former smugglers' haunt, just below Niton, a convenient start or finish for this walk.
Opposite the Buddle, a path leads downhill to join Castlehaven Lane.
Along the lane, we get a view of St Catherine's Lighthouse, and the surrounding wall that was part of the original chapel, St Catherine's Oratory, where a priest would say masses and show lights to guide passing ships.
The lane leads down past Castlehaven café and caravan park to Reeth Bay, an isolated beach reached by clambering over rocks, but today the tide was high so that there was no beach at all.
From the corner of the caravan park the path continues along the cliff edge with views of the Undercliff, a wooded strip of land below the chalk cliffs.
This is the largest landslide complex in Europe and the Undercliff consists of a bench of slipped soft clay and sands, whose sheltered position creates a warm microclimate favourable for Mediterranean planting. Another large landslip occurred in 2014, following the wet winter, resulting in the closure of the main road, Undercliff Drive, and the evacuation of seven houses.
There has been a lighthouse on this site since 1323, but the current one was built in 1838 following the loss of the sailing ship Clarendon. 94 steps lead up to the lantern, whose light can be seen for up to 17 miles.
Originally the fog signal house was on the eroding cliff edge but it cracked and was re-sited in the smaller replica tower.
During WWII, a bombing raid destroyed the engine house, killing three keepers, commemorated by a plaque in the main tower. The last keepers left the lighthouse in 1997, when it was automated.
The Clarendon sailed from St Kitts in August 1836, carrying a cargo of rum, sugar and molasses, 11 passengers and 17 crew. On 11th Oct, just off Blackgang, a huge storm wave hit the ship, which rolled over and sank, leaving just three survivors.
The path skirts
the lighthouse on the inland side via wooden steps over the wall, and then follows the
cliff edge, now very close as this broken fence shows. The terrain along this stretch of coast is treacherous, with patches of blue slipper clay which appear dry but in fact are very boggy; I learned this the hard way taking a short cut across the slope and ending up sunk in to my thighs...very scary! I would definitely advise sticking to the paths.
The path comes to an end at Watershoot Bay, a rocky crescent accessible despite an electrified fence around another area of landslip.
Here the path doubles back to climb back up towards the back of the lighthouse and through the courtyard of Knowles Farm.
The path back up to the Buddle was lined with hedgerows; these attractive red berries are not be tasted though, as they are the poisonous Solanum or woody nightshade.
From the Buddle I headed up the main road back to Niton for a pitstop and to pick up the bus back.
Walk Details
Start: The Buddle Inn, Niton
Finish: Niton village
Distance: 3.1 miles
Time: 2.5 hours
Bus: No 6 from Ventnor to Newport
Refreshments/WC: Buddle Inn, Castlehaven café, Niton village
Trinity House operates 40 minute tours of the lighthouse.
Another stage on the coastal path, having gone a bit out of sequence on my clockwise route. I started at Appley Sands just outside Ryde and more or less followed the path into St Helens. Before writing this post, I came across a new HDR photo editing app, which explains some of the unnatural images...just a bit of fun!
I was quite pleased with the way my camera handled these shots across the Solent, after all the coast is about 7 miles away. The nearest of these Solent Forts is No Man's Land Fort, and behind it is Horse Sand Fort, both built as part of the Palmerston defences and now hospitality centres.
On the north-eastern tip of the island is the village of Seaview; originally an Edwardian holiday resort and the village is comprised largely of holiday accommodation and second homes, making it very seasonal in character.
This view taken around 1900 shows the old suspension bridge.
The latest additions are these upmarket beach huts with space for one's boating equipment below and living space above, but at over £199,000 and no sleeping permitted they didn't appear to be very much occupied this week.
A feature of Seaview Harbour any time of the year are the Sea View One-Design Dinghy class of up to 180 classically designed wooden racing boats built by a local family firm.
Even in August the huge expanses of beach from Appley to Seaview are virtually empty.
Looking across to Portsmouth one can see the Spinnaker Tower and the Gunwharf Tower Building.
Rope Walk leads up to the village by the Yacht Club.
Today was the Seaview Regatta, with sailing races and traditional family events such as climbing the Greasy Pole and fireworks.
I lunched here at the Old Fort Bar/Café.
Yachts sailing past No Man's Land Fort.
From Seaview I followed the sea wall, which can only be done at low tide; Bembridge Lifeboat Station is the the background.
The next bay is Seagrove Bay, popular with families playing beach games.
Priory Bay is around the next headland. I tried to follow the coast through the woods, but there is not really a path round these days, so the official coastal path route goes inland at the end of Seagrove Bay...route map here.
I took this ladder into Priory Woods and eventually found a route along the edge of the golf course to reach the coastal path again, descending across fields to St Helens.
Baywatch on the Beach is a popular café on the sea wall.
Walk Details
Start: Appley Rd
Finish: St Helens
Distance: 4.85 miles
Time:3 hours
Bus: No 8 to Ryde
Refreshments and WC: Puckpool, Seaview and St Helens
