When I first bought my flat in Ventnor I promised myself I would walk on the Downs every time I came down, but somehow that didn't last long. But when I do summon the energy it never disappoints and I get a warm glow of self-satisfaction!
There are a number of routes to the top, the steepest being the steps just behind the old station building here, but today I took the easy way, going by road to Upper Ventnor and following the lane uphill from Down Lane. Paved all the way, it's a good winter route.
As you climb, looking back you can see the little chapel of Upper Ventnor cemetery, which always makes me think of Van Gogh's Church at Auvers. Although sunny today it was still hazy looking back.
St Boniface Down is the highest point on the island at 241metres high, covered in holm oak on the southern lower slopes, while the upper area is mixture of grass and heathland; at this time of year it has large tracts of yellow gorse, whilst in summer the purple heather dominates.
Once on the top of the Downs there are a number of level paths to wander around if you just want a stroll or you can pick a route to descend to Bonchurch, Shanklin or Wroxall. Heading east the main path leads above first Ventnor, then Bonchurch.
You can see how chalky the land here is with the piles of chalk chippings along the path.
As you reach the highest point you'll come to the Radar Station, a target for wartime bombing.
Just below the radar station, you'll pass wooden gates indicating the area of Ventnor Downs where Old English goats roam, introduced by the National Trust to keep the gorse and oaks under control.
Today I decided to head down to Luccombe, so I kept alongside the coast, following signs to Smugglers Haven and Nansen Hill.
Soon views open out across Shanklin and Sandown Bays to the white cliffs on the island's eastern tip at Culver Down
The path descends the steep grassy slope of Nansen Hill, with a view of Luccombe beach, to come out on the main road opposite the Smugglers Haven car park.
The sign marks the entry into Ventnor, symbolised by the goddess of health, Hygeia, and a pair of palm trees.This is the gateway to the Landslip, but that is a walk for another day.
The sign marks the entry into Ventnor, symbolised by the goddess of health, Hygeia, and a pair of palm trees.
But my luck was out. I was a week too early to stop for a break at the Smugglers Haven café, where many a cream tea has undone all the good of my healthy walking.
Today I decided to return to Ventnor by road, as the Landslip is still quite wet, dropping down Bonchurch Shute with its Victorian villas, to come to the Bonchurch Inn.
The Inn was originally the Tap and coach house of the Bonchurch Family Hotel next door.
The Inn was originally the Tap and coach house of the Bonchurch Family Hotel next door.It
is a timeless and quirky little place, full of character, and has been
run by an Italian family for over 25 years. Locals and visitors alike
will be found any day enjoying the traditional Italian food served
here....the lasagne is legendary!
So this bench welcomed me to stop and, for the first time this year, relax in the sun with a glass of cider in a country pub.
Spot the pigeon amid the bluebells and white Osteospermum!
Some of the old coach houses have made way for a courtyard and patio under the rock wall.
On
leaving the inn and continuing downhill, we come to the newer of
Bonchurch's churches, dating from 1847, but built with Norman features
to echo the design of the Old Church. The poet Algernon Swinburne, who
lived at nearby East Dene, is buried in the churchyard. A lovely spot
for a tranquil moment before heading back home through Bonchurch
Village.
Start and Finish at The Old Station
Distance: 4 miles
Time: 2 - 2.5 hours
Refreshments and WC: Smugglers Haven Café, Bonchurch Inn
Bus No 3 to The Old Station
Very helpful. We will try it next week. Thanks
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