I took the No 6 bus to the Buddle Inn, a former smugglers' haunt, just below Niton, a convenient start or finish for this walk.
Opposite the Buddle, a path leads downhill to join Castlehaven Lane.
Along the lane, we get a view of St Catherine's Lighthouse, and the surrounding wall that was part of the original chapel, St Catherine's Oratory, where a priest would say masses and show lights to guide passing ships.
The lane leads down past Castlehaven café and caravan park to Reeth Bay, an isolated beach reached by clambering over rocks, but today the tide was high so that there was no beach at all.
From the corner of the caravan park the path continues along the cliff edge with views of the Undercliff, a wooded strip of land below the chalk cliffs.
This is the largest landslide complex in Europe and the Undercliff consists of a bench of slipped soft clay and sands, whose sheltered position creates a warm microclimate favourable for Mediterranean planting. Another large landslip occurred in 2014, following the wet winter, resulting in the closure of the main road, Undercliff Drive, and the evacuation of seven houses.
There has been a lighthouse on this site since 1323, but the current one was built in 1838 following the loss of the sailing ship Clarendon. 94 steps lead up to the lantern, whose light can be seen for up to 17 miles.
Originally the fog signal house was on the eroding cliff edge but it cracked and was re-sited in the smaller replica tower.
During WWII, a bombing raid destroyed the engine house, killing three keepers, commemorated by a plaque in the main tower. The last keepers left the lighthouse in 1997, when it was automated.
The Clarendon sailed from St Kitts in August 1836, carrying a cargo of rum, sugar and molasses, 11 passengers and 17 crew. On 11th Oct, just off Blackgang, a huge storm wave hit the ship, which rolled over and sank, leaving just three survivors.
The path skirts the lighthouse on the inland side via wooden steps over the wall, and then follows the cliff edge, now very close as this broken fence shows. The terrain along this stretch of coast is treacherous, with patches of blue slipper clay which appear dry but in fact are very boggy; I learned this the hard way taking a short cut across the slope and ending up sunk in to my thighs...very scary! I would definitely advise sticking to the paths.
The path comes to an end at Watershoot Bay, a rocky crescent accessible despite an electrified fence around another area of landslip.
Here the path doubles back to climb back up towards the back of the lighthouse and through the courtyard of Knowles Farm.
The path back up to the Buddle was lined with hedgerows; these attractive red berries are not be tasted though, as they are the poisonous Solanum or woody nightshade.
From the Buddle I headed up the main road back to Niton for a pitstop and to pick up the bus back.
Walk Route Details |
Start: The Buddle Inn, Niton
Finish: Niton village
Distance: 3.1 miles
Time: 2.5 hours
Bus: No 6 from Ventnor to Newport
Refreshments/WC: Buddle Inn, Castlehaven café, Niton village
Trinity House operates 40 minute tours of the lighthouse.
No comments:
Post a Comment